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Contact Info:
Big Sur Station
(StateParks/USFS Visitor Center):
831-667-2315
website
bigsurstation@gmail.com
USFS Monterey District Office
(King City):
831-385-5434
website
Andrew Molera State Park:
831-667-1112
website
Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park:
831-667-1112
website
Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park:
831-667-1112
website
Limekiln State Park:
831-434-1996
website
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Overview:
The factors of steep, rugged terrain and coastal environment give pros and cons.
The steep terrain gives remarkable vistas - and strenuous hiking.
The coastal environment gives ocean views and redwood trees - also brushy trails and poison oak.
Combined with spotty trail conditions, hikes and backpacks can be challenging here -
but can reward the adventuresome with unique satisfactions.
The more difficult trails offer opportunities for solitude found in few wilderness areas.
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Where to hike:
This is a topic unto itself! Hike descriptions can be found by web searching, but here I'll provide one not available via search, a long-time favorite now available only as an archive,
Jon Iverson's list of dayhike favorites along Route 1 and
his associated
map,
a longer
list with how-to-get there info,
and my own
wilderness places to visit and
backpack suggestions.
Note that some trails may be closed - see the
trail conditions map.
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Weather:
The climate is mild, but temperatures can become hot in the summer,
particularly for open, low elevation, and inland locations. Many
trails at the higher elevations have little or no shade, making for hot hiking. Along
the coast, summer "fog"
(actually low-lying cloud) is common,
particularly in the morning, keeping temperatures cool but also
restricting lower elevation views
(often one ascends from a foggy
trailhead to, after an elevation gain of several thousand feet,
sunshine and mountain views).
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Weather Forecasts:
10-day forecasts at camp locations can be obtained by clicking any camp
icon on the
interactive Big Sur Trailmap.
Note that valleys, where many camps are located, will be colder at night than the forecast temperature for that elevation due to cold air flowing down from the slopes to pool in the valley.
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State Park Trails: Are generally in good shape tread-wise and brush-wise if "open",
but can be steep.
The
Rough Tread and
Brush descriptions below are oriented towards hikes into the National Forest, where
conditions are much more variable! Note that dogs are not permitted in State Parks.
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Miles: The
"Steep Terrain",
"Rough Tread", and
"Brush" factors described below
often produce slow hiking speeds.
Outsiders unused to Ventana wilderness trails typically overestimate the number of miles they will comfortably travel in a day.
The Silver Peak wilderness is generally more open than the Ventana so allows more miles per day.
Of course your mileage will greatly depend upon the condition of the trail.
For "passable" Ventana trails ["yellow" on the
trail conditions map]
a local rule-of-thumb is to expect to travel half the distance you can on a good Sierra trail
(and "difficult" ones – "orange" on trail conditions map – take longer).
A PCT aficionado I met at one camp complained about not being able to log as many miles
as he'd been expecting. Wilderness hikers should think about "effort", not simply "miles".
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Steep Terrain:
Terrain contrasts make Big Sur visually spectacular - but this also creates large elevation
gains/losses along many trails. To reduce the ascent/descent
many trails contour along the steep slope - which often results in
narrow tread, tread with side-slope, and washout/landslide sections.
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Rough Tread:
Trails which contour along steep slopes are
continually being degraded by erosion and usage, often resulting in rough, sloping, and narrow
tread and stones and debris along the tread. These factors can be hard on the
ankles. In particular, erosion and slides after rains can produce
very narrow sections which must be carefully negotiated, especially with a
backpack - falling off could result in a dangerous slide down a
steep slope; poles can be helpful in such situations.
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Brush:
Chaparral brush grows fast and trail maintenance is mostly
volunteer and spotty - so many trail sections have intruding
brush and can be difficult to hike, especially with a backpack.
As it grows, intruding brush at first scrapes your arms and legs, then with
further growth requires pushing through while it scrapes your face and eyes,
with more time makes the trail difficult to locate, and eventually becomes impassable when branches interlock. Depending
on the trail, wearing short pants or shirts may not be
comfortable
(also when poison oak is high and ubiquitous). Many Big Sur hikers carry along some kind
of eye protection to don when necessary and/or wear a wide-brimmed hat to help part the brush.
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Cutting:
For brushy trails, some like to carry something to help cut a broader path through, particularly if in a group.
If done correctly this is commendable, but too often folks do a sketchy job making conditions
worse – i.e. cutting a narrow path with sharp branches ready to poke eyeballs and despised by trail
crew workers since they must re-cut to the full trail width.
(And many believe that stimulates branch growth around the cut end, into the trail.) Please make
fewer but better cuts, reaching deeper into the brush,
instead of many superficial cuts. Trail crew workers will thank you for that!
Garden-variety snippers can often produce only superficial cuts, unable to cut the thicker branch deeper in the brush.
Instead I recommend a short and light, but surprisingly powerful,
Fiskars 15" PowerGear composite loppers
For heavier cutting, my favorite saw is the
Samuri Ichiban.
Machetes not recommended - intended for softer plants, if not handled well they can bounce back uncontrollably on
the often woody branches.
[report: "too-frequently rebuffed by woody biomass to be very useful"]
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Off-trail:
Off-trail travel is prohibited in State Parks but permitted in the
National Forest.
Off-trail travel in the National Forest can be very easy or very difficult, largely
depending upon the amount of brushiness - and impossible
when brush branches become interlocked.
Many off-trail "use trail" routes exist, i.e paths which are not official USFS-designated trails but instead
created by frequent usage producing a more-or-less followable path - these are depicted as orange "use trails" on the
Big Sur Trailmap. Of course their ease-of-use depends upon how frequently
they've been recently used, which can wax and wane.
For more info:
off-trail hiking webpage.
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Hiking Maps:
For interactive use, of course the
Big Sur Trailmap.
For printed maps, the most detailed
(48k:1) are my
single-page print-your-own maps.
For those wanting a single large-scale printed map,
my preferences are,
in order, Green Trails Maps map
(63k:1), Wilderness Press map
(64k:1), National Geographic map
(80k:1).
(More info)
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Water:
Many water sources dry up in the summer, particularly at higher
elevations and especially in drought years -
so may need to pack enough water for an
entire day, which can be many liters on a hot day.
Local tip: in sandy soil, surface water can disappear underground but then re-appear
downstream - so if no water is found at an expected location, first try
looking downstream, then upstream.
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River Crossings:
In the days after a winter storm, larger streams can swell to the point of being
dangerous to cross, receding slowly after the rain stops. This is particularly true
later in the rainy season, after the ground has absorbed all the water it can easily hold.
In winter/spring, check that the rivers you want to cross are indeed crossable ; and the forecast,
don't get trapped!
(Some have needed rescuing by Search-and-Rescue.).
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Permits:
Permits are not required for any trails, camps, or campgrounds.
A California Campfire permit is required for both open fires and portable stoves - see
Campfires and Stoves below.
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Camping, Campgrounds, and Camps:
State Park campgrounds all accept reservations and require fees.
USFS "Campgrounds" are in the front-country,
with vehicle access - those along paved roads have fees and will take reservations, those along dirt roads do not
take reservations but can have a fee - campgrounds requiring a fee are noted in its Trailmap pop-up "info bubble".
Camping is not allowed along Route 1 or Nacimiento-Fergusson Road - it is allowed as "dispersed camping" along Forest Service
dirt roads such as Cone Peak Road
(in summer, when its gate is open) or South Coast Ridge Road.
USFS back-country "Camps"
(aka "Primitive Camps") do not have either reservations or fees. "Dispersed Camping"
(i.e. simply camping off-trail) is allowed - but note that steep terrain can make finding a nice flat
area difficult in many places, particularly if wanting to be close to water. Permits are not required for camps or campgrounds.
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Campfires and Stoves:
A California Campfire permit is required for both open fires and portable stoves
(available at Big Sur Station
or
on-line).
Campfire and stove use is usually restricted within the National Forest outside the winter season.
The least stringent restriction
allows stoves in the backcountry but open fires only in "campgrounds"
(with vehicle access).
The most stringent restriction, set during summer, bans campfires everywhere and bans stove use in the backcountry
(until the subsequent rain total
meets a USFS criterion - "for administrative convenience" this is a forest-wide restriction
and since the southern Los Padres, near Santa Barbara, typically get rain later than the northern Los Padres,
for Big Sur the actual fire danger is then well below the officially-promulgated danger. Just saying...).
The latest USFS fire restrictions are posted on the
USFS Los Padres NF "Fire Restrictions" webpage
and also in the Big Sur Trailmap home page sidebar.
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Cold Camping:
When both fires and stoves are banned
(see above), some ideas for "cold camping" can be found
here.
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Killer Trees:
Many campsites have been burnt by recent wildfires, do not camp below damaged trees or branches which might fall.
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Wilderness Toilets: Can be found at some popular campgrounds
(noted on trailmap camp icon "info bubble" popup).
They require periodic servicing by volunteers and will overflow if overused.
Show the volunteers some love - do
not use for trash
(which must be then removed). And since toilet paper degrades slowly, excluding
it also helps maintenance and prevent overflow. Do pee
elsewhere before using - it greatly reduces odor! The toilets
are secluded but not enclosed - placing an object on/across the
access trail entrance indicates it's "in use".
Currenly wilderness toilets can be found at:
Barlow Flat Camp (one on each side of river)
Estrella Camp
Pine Ridge Camp
Spruce Creek Camp
Sykes Camp (two)
Terrace Creek Camp (two)
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Driving:
Big Sur roads are curvey and many cars drive well below the speed limit - so driving times can be longer than expected.
Rockslides frequently cause short-term and long-term road closures along Big Sur roads -
for current Route 1 closure information, see
CalTrans road conditions webpage.
Be especially alert for rocks on road if driving in early morning after a rainy night.
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Dirt Roads:
Conditions vary greatly and are seasonally dependent.
Some roads are left to the elements during the rainy season, then (usually) scraped during the dry season.
In summer many need only a high clearance vehicle, but in the rainy season 4WD is often necessary.
Much depends upon the vehicle and the driver!
My rules of thumb for summer conditions:
Cone Peak Road: high clearance non-4WD OK to Vicente Flat Trail, iffy beyond
ArroyoSeco-Indians Road (south of Escondido Campground): high clearance iffy.
Note ArroyoSeco-Indians Fireroad north of Escondido Campground is permanently closed to vehicles - is essentially a trail
Tassajara Road: high clearance non-4WD OK to China Camp, iffy beyond
South Coast Ridge Road: high clearance non-4WD OK to intersection with Los Burros Road, iffy beyond, 4WD definitely needed beyond Three Peaks
Los Burros (Willow Creek) Road: high clearance non-4WD generally OK
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Seasonal road access:
During the rainy season, road closures are common in Big Sur after rain events due to rock fall or ford closures.
California Route 1 (paved): frequently closed for short periods due to rock fall - but also for lengthy periods after slope or road failures.
Sycamore Canyon Road (paved): access to Pfeiffer Beach Day Use Area frequently closed (gated) due to high water level at ford.
("Old") Coast Road (dirt): often closed (gated), including between rain events.
Tassajara Road (dirt): occasionally closed during rains (soft closure, not gated).
Cone Peak Road (dirt) and ArroyoSeco-Indians Road (dirt): access to Escondido Camp closed during rainy season.
Los Burros (Willow Creek) Road (dirt) and South Coast Ridge Road (dirt): open year round but can be treacherous after heavy rain/snow events.
Milpitas Road (paved): access to "Indians" area (trailheads for Carrizo, Arroyo Seco, Rodeo Flat, and Santa Lucia Trails)
closed (gated) at one or both fords for high water levels - non-ford access uses Red Grade Road (dirt) when not closed for military activities.
For current road info, see
Big Sur Trail+Road Closures webpage
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Parking:
Generally along the road by the trailhead. Parking along Route 1 is limited
to 72 hours. Park only in grass-free areas, to prevent exhaust system induced fires - violators are subject to citation.
Unfortunately, break-in thefts have occasionally occurred for cars parked overnight along Route 1.
Day parking also available at all State Parks, some USFS campgrounds, and Big Sur Station for a fee - those requiring a fee are noted in its Trailmap pop-up "info bubble".
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Cell phones:
Most areas do not have cell coverage, especially out on the trails. Generally reliable coverage can be found in Big Sur locale.
Reception always spotty and can depend on your plan.
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Flowers:
Abound during the spring, disappear in summer.
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Poison Oak:
Common all over Big Sur, except in open sunny locations. Know
how to recognize it.
Avoid it or push to the side with a
pole/stick. Wear long shirts and pants. Wash your skin with a strong soap
or solvent after inadvertent contact. Most virulent in spring when oily. In winter its leafless branches can be difficult
to recognize
(no thorns, see photo) but still harmful, though less virulent
(and do not use to start a fire!).
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Flies:
Common in the summer, especially around water. The two
varieties are larger biting flies and tiny "face flies"
(they swarm around your face, apparently attracted by the moisture, and can be
surprisingly annoying). Biting fly season is the first half of the summer,
face fly season is the entire hot season. Many summer hikers carry a bug
net and wear sleeves which can be rolled down when not moving.
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Ticks:
Common during the rainy season, particularly in grassy areas and after a rain. Tick
checks should be made frequently. Know how to extract a tick
without pulling off the head
(a slow, steady pull backward gives the
tick a chance to release its jaws and let itself be pulled out).
Lyme disease is almost unknown.
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Rattlesnakes:
Occasionally seen (or heard) in warmer seasons - the
usual precautions should be taken.
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Mountain Lions:
Yes they are out there and scat is often found along trails, but sightings are extremely rare and I have never heard of a reported problem.
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Wild Pigs:
Wild pigs can be found in more remote areas, but they are few, sightings are rare, and I know of no incidents.
Their presence is known mainly through their destruction of grassy areas by rooting -
an ugly sight indeed. Have not heard of any approaching camps looking for food.
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Bears: June 2021: bear encounters increasing in southern Silver Peak area
Bear canisters are not required - but bear activity has been increasing
and
storing food in a bear-safe manner is now recommended for your safety and to prevent bears associating camps with food.
There are many
ways to bear-proof food -
bear canisters and, when done correctly, and with food inside an
odor-proof bag,
bear bag hanging.
Above all, don't keep food or scents inside your tent!
Note that
rodents have been known to get into food left outside, so bear-proofing also solves that problem.
Bears had not been found in the Ventana/
SilverPeak wilderness areas for decades, but bear prints and scat began appearing after the Soberanes Fire of 2016.
In 2021 bear encounters have been increasing - particularly in the Silver Peak wilderness area.
Recently bears have entered attended camps looking for food, in one case ripping a tent with food and backpacker inside.
There are also reports of bears breaking into unoccupied buildings containing food
and breaking into containers which never had food inside left in unattended camps.
So they are associating human-objects with food and increasing contacts are anticipated, particularly in dry seasons. Don't attract a bear looking for food into your
camp!
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Mountain Bikes:
Prohibited in wilderness areas, which cover most of the local Los Padres National Forest. Bikers can use the view-laden ArroyoSeco-Indian Road (a non-wilderness corridor, closed to vehicles, through a wilderness area)
or the precipitous Prewitt Ridge Usetrail (down-hill!).
Or dirt roads such as (Old) Coast Road or South Coast Ridge Road (but note that bikes are prohibited along North Coast Ridge Road).
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Dogs:
Dogs are allowed in the National Forest if "under control".
They are not allowed in State Parks. They will bring back poison oak
and ticks, so need to be washed/checked at least daily(and do think twice about taking them - many are
glad afterwards that they did not bring their dogs).
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Children:
The rough trails, steep terrain, and elevation gains can can be difficult for small
children.
Do teach them to recognize & avoid poison oak and, in the rainy season, check them for ticks.
Plan an alternative route should they experience more difficulty than expected.
A bad experience when young can discourage them from later trips (I've heard a few reports of such) - less now can mean more later.
For the above reasons, I've personally seldom seen small children on wilderness trails (though many teenagers) - but I have heard anecdotal success stories from some parents with small children.
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Solitude:
The "Steep Terrain", "Rough Tread", and "Brush" factors described above means most hikers head for the better maintained trails!
Many trails in the Ventana/SilverPeak wilderness have little use, where it is not uncommon to go an entire day without meeting anyone.
Obviously the more difficult-to-reach places have the fewest hikers - poorly maintained trails, trails at the end of a long dirt road, etc.
Weekends are much more crowded than weekdays. The principal places to avoid are trails starting at Route 1, and most especially
the western Pine Ridge Trail.
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Time of Year:
Considering all the above factors, locals consider autumn
the best season for Big Sur hiking - temperatures are cool, bugs have
disappeared, and rain is unlikely; the only negative is fewer
sources of water at higher elevations. In winter and spring the
cool temperatures also make for enjoyable
hiking and water is more available - but weather must be watched, since rain can swell the larger
streams. The least desirable season is summer since trails get
hot, bugs abound at lower elevations, seasonal water sources dry up,
and campfires are prohibited (and during extreme fire conditions, stoves are also prohibited). If hiking in summer,
consider cooler trails along higher elevation ridges (though
water sources are then more of a concern) or in shaded forests
or along a river (but bugs are more
prevalent there).
